My post was aimed at Rain and Rain Only - Read it again it says:
The fault code says "correlation" not "Replace"
So go about "correlation" not Replacing.
The only person that has replaced anything here is Rain, Kev has read the post and knows it is not aimed at him. Equally it is not a dig at Rain either.
Ian, some would say (not me) that it is rude of you accusing me of being rude. I have not been on this forum long and I am not here to do that. It is not difficult to see many of the members here are trained to a high level and know their sh*t when it comes to cars. Kev is certainly one of them but he will not need me to tell him that. I hope to gain from this forum and become better at what I do, in return I am happy to help others where I can, as with all forums and indeed our customers it is difficult to help some people either because they do not listen or do not have the equipment to do what we see as a simple test. Lets say we have a question about a Crank sensor playing up at 5000rpm and above - I hope you will agree that the only way to test that fault and component is with a scope, how do you help someone who does not have one and has it firmly in his head that he does not need one - there is only one way - tell him to replace the sensor, then the wiring loom and ECU then hope for the best.
My Motto is: No Scope No Hope !!!
What I am saying to Rain is this: Carefully read the fault code and get an understanding of it. The code is telling him that the ECU is recieving signals from Sensor 1 & 2 that are not correlated. With the car on Idle, Fully depress the pedal and one sensor should go smoothly from approx 0.5v to 2v and the other should go smoothly from approx 0.75v to 4v, (info From Tolerance Data) I say approx because the manufacturer will have allowed a certain tolerence either way. When the 2 sensors fall outside of this tolerence you will get that fault code. The fault code does not say replace the pedal, it says quite clearly that the ECU is seeing two readings from the sensors and they do not add up, are outside of the manufacturers tolerance as above hence not correlated.
Hence my comment: So go about "correlation" not Replacing.
(Working from memory) The pedal will have 6 pins:
First Make sure that the Pedal connector and ECU connecters are good, no corrosion, water oil dirt etc. then get a pin that is exactly the same size as the Pin in the pedal sensor an another that is exactly the same size as the pin in the ECU (they may be the same size) Use this pin to make certain that the Female pin in the connector has not been streched - the pin should go in and out and must be reasonably tight. This pin can be used later to test continuity properly from end to end.
With the Ignition ON and everything connected: Conduct the following test at the pedal
Pins 1 & 2 on the pedal must have 5v - This is fed from the ECU Plug B - Pins 20 & 35
Pins 4 & 5 Must be an Earth - This is fed from the ECU Plug B - Pins 33 & 50
If you have a 5v Supply or Earth fault at the pedal - then go to the ECU and check there on the pins mentioned. If any one of the four ECU pins mentioned are not supplying the correct 5v or Earth then you have an ECU Fault. If you have all four at the ECU and not at the Pedal then you have a wiring fault - there is a connector between the two that could be poor - Test continuity of wiring with both ends disconnected, test for short to earth and short to positive. If all that is good you need to check for an internal error or short in the pedal itself (unlikely as you have replaced that.
Pins 3 & 6 are the signal wires.
With it all connected, Ignition On, pedal fully released
Pin 3 goes to ECU Plug B Pin 37 - The reading at Pin 3 must be the same as the reading at Pin 37 - If not you have a wiring issue
Pin 6 goes to ECU Plug B Pin 36 - The reading at Pin 6 must be the same as the reading at Pin 36 - If not you have a wiring issue
Now do the same tests with the pedal fully depressed.
Please Post all 8 results
Now do the tests again but this time start with the pedal released and gradually press it to the floor and make certain that the reading changes smoothly as you press the pedal - You must use a two channel scope for this test and watch both sensors react smoothly and together as you depress the pedal. A multimeter will not pick up a glitch.