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Honda Civic 2005 petrol. Not starting and no communication

Posted By delete acount! Wednesday, November 28, 2012 12:30:59 PM
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delete acount!
 Posted Wednesday, November 28, 2012 12:30:59 PM
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Last Active: Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:11:14 PM
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Hi boys and girls. This one really grinds my gears.

2005 Honda Civic executive i-vtec 1600cc. Engine code D16V1, automatic.


Story;1st garage: engine replaced as old one was driven without rad cap. Refused to start afterwards but garage did not get involved in further repairs. Lady took car away to another garage.2nd garage: condemned faulty PCM/ECU, send away fro repairs. Got it repaired but failed to start.
3rd garage; We checked all wiring. Suspected faulty PCM/ECU. Opened ECU and found one 6leg chip poorly re soldered with one leg detached and board line damaged. Phoned ECU repair shop who repaired and they said that they only checked ECU and it was all fine so they charged lady £68,- for testing and delivered it back with sticker attached "check wiring-do not reconnect". Obviously they advised us to send unit back to them (at additional testing cost). As it locked suspicious to us we found SH package of PCM/ECU, IMMO with key and steering lock for £60,- from ebay. Decided to go with second option. Once received, installed and noticed that ECU/PCM does switches main ignition relay which back feeds ECU/PCM module itself and IMMO module ( green key light came on & started flashing. Was not lighting up with old unit as ECU/PCM did not activated relay upon receiving ignition on +12V) At this point noticed that ECU/PCM was warming up once left with ignition on for min 5 min. It felt about 40-45degrees tops with hand on. Not shore if it's normal. Obviously new SH ECU did carried out its automatic operation so looked promising even with flashing key(suspected breakers picked wrong IMMO module or wrong key exc.)
Now before called in locksmith to do his part we tried to establish communication with the car. Both our universal tools failed and what worries me that locksmith will hit the wall with his gear to. Our Launch and Snappon scanners normally work with Honda with no problems. We scoped K line and found nothing wrong. Just no response from modules(it has Bosch ABS fitted which does work but our scanners simply cant make them took). Questions that i seek answers for would be: 1) Does Honda ECU/PCM are known to get warm on ignition on?
2) Does K (lightblue) is the only way to communicate with ECU/PCM as it also has L (grey) (L line at OBD pin 14 connects to SRS and IMMO modules by looking at diagram). Scoped and no activity on this line.
3) If we feed ECU/PCM on test bench and connect scanner to K line - it should communicate with it no problems?
4) what is purpose of "sensor ground" wire at OBDplug pin no 5 ?
5) Anybody has proper wiring diagrams/manual CD to sell or donate?

Thursday, July 11, 2013 6:32:10 PM by Minder
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 Posted Wednesday, November 28, 2012 3:04:32 PM
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ECU casing noticeably warm with key on does not sound normal. Try disconnecting ignition coils and other actuators to see if it still gets hot.

If all this started off the back of the engine overheating/engine replacement, consider what could have caused it- was the engine loom the original one, or did it come with the replacement engine? Are all engine earths ok? (and not trying to earth via the ECU).
delete acount!
 Posted Monday, December 03, 2012 12:48:35 PM
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Last Active: Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:11:14 PM
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Fixed. Turned out to be a faulty knock sensor(came with replacement engine). Weird that 2005 ecu is not capable to protect it self from such failures like sensors or actuators.
Tismot
 Posted Tuesday, December 04, 2012 7:18:19 PM
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???

A knock sensor is a passive sensor, how did it pull down an ECU

Mark


Modern cars, Its all wizardry and witchcraft
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 Posted Thursday, July 11, 2013 6:02:00 PM
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Group: Awaiting Activation
Last Active: Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:11:14 PM
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Hi

It did not matter whether passive or active sensor in thiscase. I even did not bother looking for a type of fault at that time as itturned out one lazy mechanic, who was trusted to unplug each connector toeliminate possible interference , did left knock sensor connected as plug washard to reach(it really is hard to reach tough). I guess SH engine came withshorted sensor where 12volt current possibly was feed directly to signal wire.ECU was getting warm pretty quickly. We fired ECU on a bench successfully thenwe turned back to the vehicle and in matter of minutes fault was eliminated.


P.S. sorry for bringing this old tread up...I was kindly asked to do so. My pleasure...

Minder


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