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Peugeot 106 1.1 - Engine cranking but won't start - no spark - Faulty ECU?

Posted By JM89 Sunday, March 02, 2014 2:07:43 PM
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Peugeot 106 1.1 - Engine cranking but won't start - no spark - Faulty...

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JM89
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 2:07:43 PM
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Dear Forum,

Have had my Peugeot 106 1.1 1997 for about 6 years. Has been a good old banger thats run and run with the occasional fix here and there.


To convey the current problem with the car I have to do a bit of explaining - sorry if its a bit lengthy.

Problem
4 weeks ago, the engine just cut out mid-drive. It wouldn't restart straight away, but after pushing it to the side of the road it started without any trouble. The car ran fine, for about another week until I stopped for petrol at the local garage. I switched off the engine, topped up on fuel, but when I tried to start it, it wouldn't fire up. But after pushing it off the petrol station forecourt a few minutes later, the engine started no hassle. 5 days later, the engine cut out again mid drive - started again after a few minutes... only to cut out again a mile down the road. This time it wouldn't start at all, and I had to have it recovered back to a local garage. I explained the symptoms to them and said it wouldn't start, but they rang me up to say it started first time and they couldn't find a fault with it. They had it in the garage for 2 days, but said they couldn't find any fault. They cleaned the throttle housing and said that should help. I collected the car, it started first time - I drove it down the road to the petrol station to fill up again, but after refilling, it wouldn't start... and haven't been able to start it since. I towed the car to a nearby residential road, and this is where it currently resides.


Diagnosis so far
I only have a basic understanding of mechanics and engines, but my guess is the intermittent symptoms of the problem seem to suggest an electrical fault rather than a progressive, mechanical one.

My Dad and I did some research and found a thread on the forum that sounded like a similar problem. (http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic49302.aspx?PageIndex=2)
We've followed the steps suggested on the thread to try and diagnose what could be causing the issue.

So far, we know the following for sure:
  • The engine is cranking
  • The spark plugs are not sparking
  • The crank sensor that reads off the fly-wheel is ok - we tested with a multimeter like the other thread suggested, and it all checked out ok.


The other clue we may have is that the 'Engine auto diagnostics warning light' on the dashboard fails to register and illuminate when turning the key on.
To describe the dashboard symbol I'm referring to, its the first one listed on the following link (or No.12 on the diagram further down the page): http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages/peugeot_106_dash_warning_lights_221491.cfm
It looks like a 'K' inside a shape.

Normally, this instrument light would illuminate along with the oil, coolant, handbrake and battery lights when I turn the key for the first time. After engine firing, this light would disappear - which I'm assume meant that all was ok and there weren't any problems.

However, as I've said, this instrument currently does not illuminate when I turn the key to the 'on' position.

I'm guessing this means there is perhaps a fault with the engine diagnostics - perhaps the ECU. The ECU is a Bosch 0261204788 Ma3.1. We've checked the contacts on the plug that connects into the ECU, and they all look healthy and fine, so my guess is maybe that its the ECU that was on the brink before, and has now given up the ghost.

Resolution
I have bought a cheap 2nd hand replacement ECU - same model etc, so hopefully this may get things working. This is my only lead at present. I'm guessing the fact that the engine isn't sparking could be caused by a faulty ECU, so maybe this is the cause. If not, then the mystery will deepen...

If anyone on the forum has had a similar problem or has any ideas/advice, that would be much appreciated, and thanks for taking the time to read all my spiel.



Many thanks.
Robski
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 2:19:18 PM
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easy !

Get it to a reputable garage with the right equipment/knowledge instead of buying parts that won't even be needed at this stage.


Rob.
tk
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 2:19:21 PM
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Why haven't you got the ecu scanned for fault codes yet?
JM89
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 2:31:10 PM
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You're right - the best thing is probably to get it to a garage. I guess I've just been looking to try and work it out myself after the garage failed to find anything. Have recently moved into the area, and after going with what was supposed to be a 'reputable' garage, I feel like I've no idea where to take it. Will have another look around, but I guess its just another gamble wherever I take it.
Robski
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 2:34:32 PM
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but I guess its just another gamble wherever I take it.
not when it's the right place.

What area are you in ?

Rob.
Angus
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 2:36:03 PM
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JM

Thanks for a very informative and well laid-out post.


I very much doubt that there will be anything useful stored in the fault memory.


Well spotted that the K-light isn't coming on - vital clue. If the ECU isn't getting power, or a good earth, then it can't switch it on.

Forget ECU-swapping, that just muddies the water and won't work anyway as it's security coded. Instead start by checking the brown double relay (mounted under the ECU plate) and its plug and local wiring for water ingress and corrosion.


If all looks OK; suspect the relay itself. If replacing it, get the exact same part number - there are many that look identical that will cause a disaster if fitted.

.
JM89
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 4:03:50 PM
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Robski - I'm in Hatfield area. I don't like to point the finger of shame, but the garage which I used first time was 'Fairway Tyre & Auto Services', so maybe we can count this one out? There seems to be a few in the area, but judging which is reputable or not is a bit tricky as there's not many independant reviews around.

Angus - Thats a good shout - I hadn't thought about earthing problems. I will investigate the brown double relay & plug tomorrow evening and report back. If its a dodgy connection/corroded cable that could explain the intermittent nature of the fault.

As for the replacement ECU - I know I'm maybe jumping the gun a bit, but time's moving on and it was pretty cheap, so I figured it couldn't hurt to get one ordered. The part numbers & labels are identical, so if it does eventually come to swapping the ECU, it should match up ok. I will leave it for now - hasn't arrived anyway, but will continue to investigate the power/earthing issue in the meantime.

Thanks for the pointers - will post back tomorrow with my findings.
Robski
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 4:12:52 PM
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Pretty sure Prince on here serves that area & would have had that sorted for you in a jiffy BUT as Angus has given you a silver bullet & took the bread & butter from a tradesman's table you'll no doubt have it sorted yourself.


Rob.
Angus
 Posted Sunday, March 02, 2014 4:18:28 PM
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JM

The ECU part numbers may match - but the programmed-in immobilizer code won't... Unless it's a specially-built free-running one, it's useless to you.


A failing relay can be very intermittent before they finally die too.

.
a.v.s.
 Posted Monday, March 03, 2014 6:59:05 AM
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Robski (3/2/2014)
OP

Pretty sure Prince on here serves that area & would have had that sorted for you in a jiffy BUT as Angus has given you a silver bullet & took the bread & butter from a tradesman's table you'll no doubt have it sorted yourself.


Agreed, you got to ask yourself 'what is going on here...'


Garages bite back....

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