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ford smax 2.2 diesel 2011 regeneration fault

Posted By jonastra1 Tuesday, December 04, 2018 1:42:10 PM
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jonastra1
 Posted Tuesday, December 04, 2018 1:42:10 PM
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Hi, I have a 2011 Ford Smax with me that is driving me mad.
When I got it, it had been remapped very badly.
Egr delete, dpf delete, dpf removal had been carried out. Car was overboosting like crazy after 8 seconds of holding any throttle position.
Loaded genuine software to it, replaced the egr and the dpf. DPF is a Klarius. Test drove it. Perfect I thought.

Car returned after 2 days driving with a fault code P244C suggesting that the temperature at the back of the dpf was too low during regeneration. After a few test drives I found that
1 if I cleared the fault code and drove the car, it would start a regen, and if I kept driving moderately, it would complete the regen successfully. Temp before dpf around 520C and temp after during regen 610C roughly.

2 if I drive the car until a regen was initiated, then disrupt the regen by pulling over for about 30 seconds, when i drove the car again so as to restart the regen, i can see that the temperature of the rear sensor remains below that of the front sensor, and the eml light comes on.

3 the pump and glow plug for the vaporiser remain active during the regeneration process, even when the regen is failing.

I suspected the rear temperature sensor, middle of dpf, as it had been visibly bent during the smash out procedure. I replaced it with a genuine one. Also there was a tsb raised about this concern, however it is not applicable to my chassis range. My car has only 2 temp sensors on the dpf and not 3 as per the tsb.

I replaced the dpf with another of the same brand, just in case i got a bad one, but to no avail.

All advice on this welcome

Thanks, Jon

McTech
 Posted Tuesday, December 04, 2018 5:21:45 PM
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J

A few of questions,

What are you scanning with?

Why would it want a regen after two days with a new PDF?

Or are you forcing it?

Mt


I O, I O, its off to work I go!
jonastra1
 Posted Tuesday, December 04, 2018 6:16:26 PM
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No I’m not forcing a regen. If the car is driven for around 30 minutes to 1 hour, somewhere in that time the ash loading builds up to around 80 %. Then regeneration kicks in. The ash loading drops to around 30% and then the regen cycle completes. I was thinking this would be normal enough.
jonastra1
 Posted Tuesday, December 04, 2018 6:17:20 PM
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Using autel on this.
miketribe
 Posted Wednesday, December 05, 2018 2:34:48 AM
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John, why would the ash reading be at 80% after an hour or so? Investigate the cause of that reading first. Notice I say "reading", I suspect false information here.

Mike


Being in business would be fine, if we didn't need customers.
Thema
 Posted Wednesday, December 05, 2018 3:01:10 AM
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jonastra1 (12/4/2018)
No I’m not forcing a regen. If the car is driven for around 30 minutes to 1 hour, somewhere in that time the ash loading builds up to around 80 %. Then regeneration kicks in. The ash loading drops to around 30% and then the regen cycle completes. I was thinking this would be normal enough.


I'm with McTech and Mike on this. What you describe is NOT normal enough!
In fact I can't even believe it's possible. That ash loading of 80% after half an hour of running has to be wrong!

Peter
jonastra1
 Posted Wednesday, December 05, 2018 3:28:50 AM
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Ok, i’ll Look into that. We fitted a new egr valve and inspected the turbo when investigating the overboost condition.
I have a suspicion about the klarius dpf itself.
I just wondered if anyone else had a problem like this?
Timbo
 Posted Wednesday, December 05, 2018 8:39:15 AM
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Are the 2 pressure sensors new and /or reading correctly in live data? Get a 10psi gauge tee'd upstream and then downstream and confirm readings when driving. Maybe the rest of the exhaust is plugged further down?



As others say 80% soot after short time running is either wrong, or the engine is kicking out enormous soot from a running problem. I'd pull the downpipe off pre DPF and run / rev it to see what it's emitting to narrow down direction.


On a knife edge !
Thema
 Posted Wednesday, December 05, 2018 12:46:42 PM
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Just one other thought, and there are people on here far more knowledgeable about this sort of thing than I am, but are you 100% sure that the software you've now loaded onto it is correct? Where did you get it from for instance?
I have heard of some very dodgy sites selling "genuine" software which is rubbish!

Peter
Andy-01
 Posted Wednesday, December 05, 2018 1:49:02 PM
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Great point about the software. It should only really be done via IDS, using the original PCM number to ensure the correct calibration gets installed.

Then, at the DPF pressure sensor, slide a back probe into the signal wire. (Normally pin 1, but could be the early sensor which is pin 3).
Note the signal voltage at the following:

Key on.
Engine at idle.
Engine at fast idle (3000 rpm plus)

Then disconnect the pipes from the pressure sensor.
Connect a mitivac to the port marked 'Hi', and manually apply 300 millibar of PRESSURE, ignition on only. Note the signal voltage again.

If you can update me with those four signal voltages, I will have a better idea of what's going on Smile

Andy

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