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Peugeot 406 2.0L HDI fault code P0190

Posted By Weslake234 Tuesday, February 12, 2019 5:57:39 AM
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Weslake234
 Posted Tuesday, February 12, 2019 5:57:39 AM
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My old 2000 406 2.0l HDI is in big trouble. Fault code P0190 showing. Fuel rail pressure sensor.
The engine suddenly cut out while driving. I am an old mechanic retired with 30 years experience and I disconnected the FRPS connection from the sensor and the car started in limp mode. I drove the car for several days until I began to get starting problems.
These got worse until eventually it would not start at all.
FRPS ignition on, shows reference voltage 4.9v signal 9.4v and ov on third pin. Ignition off signal wire still shows 1.4volts until BSI goes to sleep. Open a door to wake it up and the 1.4 volts returns.
Signal voltage is from ECU pin 74. To rule out wiring probs between ECU and sensor plug I cut the wire and voltage was still reading on ECU.
I have disconnected every engine sensor and still get the reading. Dual relay tested all ok. No dampness anywhere.
I suspected BSI fault but on chatting with BBA reman was told they have not come across this fault before and did not think it was BSI fault as everything else is working.
I am desperate as I have just done £800 of work on the old girl and is in absolutely top condition. Was hoping it would see me out as I am 82 years old now. I have seen identical symptoms on other forums on two occassions but they were not resolved.
Am just praying that someone can give me a lead.
Thanks in advance.

ps I did purchase another plug and play ECU from HDI remaps. same result. Also dual relay tested [Im into electronics too] all OK.

Tony.
Thursday, February 14, 2019 11:29:46 AM by Weslake234
CYRIL (T)
 Posted Wednesday, February 13, 2019 4:48:06 AM
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Welcome to the Bba forum.Just a fault code its live data that we need..avoid unpluging things as you will put faults in that are not there.
I too am retired .
With a good tool you can get all the fuel pressure without having to fit guages..
Forr the engine to fire up you need 120 bars min.
At idle 298 to 308 bars.the Hp pump is only lubricated under 50 bars.
The camshaft and crank sensors must be syncronised.

The two main problems that I can think of are.
Fuel pressure req Ò ring has a split in it ,not allowing full pressure.
The 1304 relay that is next to the ecu has some burnt terminals.
There is one other thing which is a wiring splice fault.


Regards

Cyril

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Weslake234
 Posted Wednesday, February 13, 2019 5:32:42 AM
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Thanks for getting back to me Cyril.

What I am really looking for is a reason why The FRPS connector from ecu shows signal wire 9.4 volts ignition on [ should be 0.5v ]and

1.4volts ignition off,

which drops to OV when the BSI sleeps after a couple of minutes. Wake it up by opening a door and up comes the 1.4v again [ignition off]

This is without the dual relay being connected as well. It is nothing to do with the pressure sensor itself as it is not connected.

I have already tried another new sensor and same result so actual fuel pressures are irrelevant when the signal wire is receiving 9.4v from the


ECU.with ignition on which should be 0.5v rising to 2 or more volts with engine running.

The FRPS socket OV and 5v reference are OK.

There are only a few wires coming from BSI unit to ECU so I am beginning to wonder if that is the culprit although all other functions which.

it controls are working fine. I have already replaced the ECU. No change.

If you can point me in the right direction of possible causes I would be very grateful

I have seen the identical fault on a couple of forums in the past but not resolved.

Tony
Wednesday, February 13, 2019 5:35:38 AM by Weslake234
wor-mate
 Posted Wednesday, February 13, 2019 8:27:19 AM
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Please check all earths

Is it on bosch or siemens as the signal terminal on the frp sensor changes

Do tests by back pining multiplug with frp connected

If its on bosch check the o ring on the reg solenoid in the hp pump
Weslake234
 Posted Wednesday, February 13, 2019 12:34:46 PM
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Update. I was unfortunate enough to have two faults not one, the engine is now running well albeit in limp mode.

In the murky depths behind the loom etc I discovered a loose pressure regulator plug. This had gradually worked its

way off

and was the reason for the intermittent starting problem and the ultimate non start. It will not retain with usual

built in clip so as a temporary measure I have tie wrapped it on. It is very secure.


The limp mode fault is still there though. The 9.4 volts on the fuel pressure sensor becomes 10.3 volts with

engine idling.

tried one of the other sensors but of course it is not going to change the voltage that is coming from the ECU.

I have now fitted my remapped ECU. £195 which i bought for extra towing power. Runs fine,- in limp mode still of course.

So ECU fault I would say is ruled out. I think my best course of action is to contact SR auto electrics.

Mobile diagnostic and repair service that advertise no call out charge and no fix no fee offer. Does anyone know

about them?

They might find the fault with their scanner although I have a sneaky feeling we are looking at a wiring loom fault.

Has any one heard of SR Auto electrics. I am also hoping that the other people who have had the identical fault

on their 406 will see this and if they found the answer to it to let me know.

Thanks for you lads that are taking the time to try and help me. All greatly appreciated.

Tony.
Wednesday, February 13, 2019 12:38:33 PM by Weslake234
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 Posted Wednesday, February 13, 2019 3:07:43 PM
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No call out charge and no fix, no fee,, what do you think your get,, ?
Weslake234
 Posted Wednesday, March 13, 2019 5:42:20 PM
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Well I have finally cracked it, and in the course of doing so have been forced to study and understand modern ecu engine systems.
In the old days of rack and rotary fuel pumps everything was straight forward and problems could be solved by being equipped with a good working knowledge of the mechanics that were going on, enabling a logical fault diagnosis. I have had to catch up with modern technology which at my age was not easy.

Ultimately the new found knowledge was not really needed and even the most expensive fault diagnosis equipment would have
not have given the answer. The clue I realised was in the fault code. P0190 fuel pressure sensor CIRCUIT FAULT.
Nothing to do with the pressure sensor, pressure regulator or the fuel rail pressure which in my ignorance I was concentrating on.
I did rework the wiring coming from the loom to the pressure sensor connector and searched for a wiring break or splice fault.
NOTHING. I was getting readings from the pressure sensor which were outside of that which the ecu required to prevent it
going into default [limp] mode. continuity checks on the short 12 inch 3 wire connector showed good so what was causing the readings?
I had cleaned the connectors both ends too. I finally decided that this connector lead must have resistance somewhere which was giving me the faulty readings when linked to the sensor in spite of my considerable electronics experience. I bought a new one fitted it and switched on and would you believe it the bloody thing started and I was able to remove the fault code .
The remapped ECU which I had mentioned earlier worked a dream and I got a real push in the back when i put my foot down.
I was elated after two months in the wilderness getting a result like that.
In conclusion in my search through the forums for some information on this fault I came across two different cases with an identical fault and neither were resolved. One chap even gave up saying it was the first time he'd ever been beaten and sold his well loved 406.
They both reported 9 to 10 volts on ECU signal output to sensor as I did, when it should have shown 0.5 volts.
However this was before connecting the pressure sensor and when I connected mine I was getting .6 volts due to to the lead/connector resistance. This of course was unacceptable to the ECU and it resulted in a default fuel rail pressure and non start
unless disconnected.

I hope this info may be of some use to whoever gets this same fault. As simple as the answer was it certainly got me going.

Final analysis I think the problem was caused by a poor pin/socket connection. I'm now off for a stiff drink. Not really allowed cos of my medication but sod it.
.
Weslake234
 Posted Friday, March 15, 2019 2:44:54 PM
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Further update. It wasn't a poor pin/ socket connection. It was a crimped terminal which over 19 years had gone high resistance.
Metal to metal. This would not of happened had the joint been soldered. Quite impractical of course.
The resulting 3 ohms resistance was enough to make the signal voltage unacceptable to the ECU. We live and learn don't we.Smile

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